I've noticed Iberico cheese here and there over the past few years. Without close examination it looks a lot like Manchego — another Spanish cheese with a bone-white paste and a waxy brown rind imprinted with a woven grass esparto design. I mistakenly assumed that it was a Manchego knock-off produced outside the Manchego DOC area.
Until I tasted it — when I reminded myself about what happens when you assume.
Once it is out of the wrapper, there is not one thing about Iberico cheese that resembles Manchego. Unlike the pure sheeps' milk Manchego, Iberico is made from a blend of milks; it must contain at least 50 percent cow milk, at least 30 percent goat milk and at least 10 percent sheep milk. Blending types of milk this way is quite common in Spain, but has not been practiced much elsewhere in Europe; it just now is coming into vogue among some American cheesemakers. It is a very good way to tailor the cheese to meet specific desired characteristics.
Cow milk lends the cheese its creaminess and silky texture and supplies a round flavor and the acidic base. The goat milk whitens the color and adds a spicy, citrusy quality, while the small amount of sheep milk adds a higher fat content and a rich concentration of proteins without contributing the barnyard aroma associated with pure sheep cheese.
In my research, I noticed that many sources list Iberico (which can be aged up to six months) as a hard cheese; but the El Cortijo brand I purchased from Sam's, while firm, is noticeably softer and quite creamy compared with most Spanish hard cheeses, and has a young, "juicy" feel to it.
Because of the brilliant blending of milk, Iberico melts beautifully, does not turn oily at room temperature and manages an interesting and distinct flavor while remaining mild enough to please everyone. The flavor is rich behind a strong upfront tang, without a hint of bitterness.
This is a really delicious all-purpose cheese for everything from sandwiches to fondue; or simply broil it over a slice of baguette. If you like Havarti (which I do), you'll love Iberico, which has all the appeal of the former with a bigger tang and far more interesting depth of flavor.
Iberico is produced in Central Spain and has been made under strict guidelines since the mid-80s. The producers are awaiting their DOC, or lawful denomination of origin, which will protect the cheese from imitation outside the traditional region of its manufacture.
It has not surprisingly become one of the most popular cheeses in Spain, but has not yet taken over Manchego's spot in the United States. If you give it a try, you might become a convert.
Iberico and Salami Long Roll
For each large sandwich
1 LaBrea demi baguette* (*available at Schnucks; get frozen ones and bake)
2 ounces Molinari Finocchiona** or Sopresatta or another quality dry salami, sliced thin (** available at Vecchio's market in Newburgh; Finocchiona is highly flavored with fennel seeds; if it is not available or if you don't love fennel, any good tangy dry salami will do)
2 thick slices of Ibérico cheese
2 slices tomato
1 Handfull arugula leaves
- Paper-thin slices red onion
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Sprinkle of sea salt and a big grind of black pepper
Directions
1. If you purchased the frozen demi baguette, bake it as directed, then immediately wrap in a clean towel to keep the crust pliable and bite-able. If you are using another bread with a softer crust, this step is not necessary. La Brea demi's are really the best for European sandwiches though because they taste great, are personal-sized, have awesome chew and you can control the texture this way for a baguette sandwich you actually can bite through without cutting your gums.
2. When cool, slice the baguette lengthwise and drizzle both halves of the cut bread with olive oil.
3. Layer the salami, cheese and tomato on the bottom half. Sprinkle the tomato lightly with salt and pepper.
4. Top with the arugula and onion slices and another sprinkle of salt and pepper. Place top half on bread, skewer with two picks and cut in half, if desired, and enjoy. This is a terrific medley of punchy Mediterranean flavors.
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